Day 7 - Haltwhistle to Alston

For Wainwright day 7 seems to mark a distinct change in his mood. It started badly when all the picture he had had printed were ruined and from that point on he seemed destined to walk mainly on roads and get back to Settle with his aim of writing a book where "...the best feature was not to be the narrative, but the first-class illustrations...".

Day 7 does pay a last brief visit to the Wall but it can't be denied that the pinnacle is passed and Haltwhistle itself had gone nothing to improve Wainwright's demeanour.

I had stayed at the Grey Bull in 1998 as had Wainwright 60 years earlier and any information about the owners in 1938. From Haltwhistle the old and new routes find their way following Haltwhistle Burn north to the main road after which a minor road leads back to the wall.




Following the wall westwards the route continues as far as Carvoran (now a Roman Museum) passing a disused quarry lying just to the north of the wall. I would be interested to know more about the quarry as it is suggested that it was still in operation on the old map and presents a huge eyesore and is an ugly blot on the landscape. There is an aerial ropeway marked on the old map which presumably served the quarry taking the rock down to the railway - confirmation would be useful.

At Carvoran the routes diverge as Wainwright proceeded into Greenhead. The new route follows a minor road before crossing meadows and the Tippalt Burn near College Farm (why that name?) then over the railway and road and onto another minor road heading south toward Featherstone Common.

The road is followed for 2 miles to Featherstone Bridge after which the west bank of the river South Tyne is followed with Featherstone castle on the opposite bank. There is past evidence of more quarrying and at Lambley there is a grand disused viaduct that carried the railway that one weaved its way to Allendale. Details about the railway and the quarrying would be useful.

A short road walk takes the new route to join the old where they proceed along the Maiden Way, the old Roman road that Wainwright had tried to follow. South of Lambley it is easy to track because once again Wainwright had found himself walking the route that was to become part of the Pennine Way some 30 years after he had come this way.

All three routes coincide as far as Burnstones where the new route has the chance to follow the disused railway track bed. There is reference on the old map to Burnstones Inn - any detail would be very useful about the inn for I do not recall one from 1998.

Slaggyford found favour with Wainwright for its "complete tranquility" and in 1998 the old railway station was very tranquil for it, like so many other, is now dead. It was a delightful little station and can be imagined as being bedecked with flower baskets in earlier times tended by a keen station master. Any details about this remnant of a past life would be very interesting.

The railway track continues south where the tiny dots on the old map between Wainwright's route and the new route is actually the Pennine Way and all three cross the river South Tyne to the footbridge that Wainwright was very pleased to discover having thought he would have to ford the river. The footbridge is a sizable structure in the middle of nowhere and its building must have a history as to why its there - any details would be gratefully received.

Then there is the church to which he referred which seems to have been built to serve but a few. It is as though there was once a greater population in this area to merit the bridge and the church.

Once the river is crossed it is a short walk on minor roads into England's highest market town, Alston. Passing Kirkside Wood Alston is less than 2 miles. A stretch of the railway has been rescued hereabouts by volunteers as the South Tynedale Railway and it runs in the valley below the path which rises before descending again into Alston.

Wainwright had arrived on the day of the Alston Show and stayed with the Richardson family. Mr Richardson, a poultry keeper, was the show secretary and I failed to find any details about him so any now would be very useful, such as where did they live and where is the family now.

Day 7 is the first day heading home but has passed 18 pleasant miles re-visiting the wall and tracking the South Tyne valley and finally pausing at the delightful Alston. Details about the valley, the railway, the people would all be very welcome.

Day 6 - Hexham to Haltwhistle

Day 6 has to be the raison d'etre for the walk for it is today that the route follows Hadrian's Wall for several miles before turning south for the stopover at Haltwhistle. It is the day that the way is half-walked and it is the day when the most northerly point is reached. Everything after day 6 is heading home.

The Wainwright route and the new routes coincide for the first part of the day as the early miles are largely a means of leaving Hexham behind as quickly as possible to make progress toward the Wall. There is little alternative to following the main road leading west from Hexham but it soon turns right and crosses another disused railway which once provided a circuitous route to Allendale.

Crossing the river Tyne the minor road runs under the mainline railway which is the first time a working line has been seen since day 1, all the others on other days having become disused. The road then continues through Warden with its church with no clock. History of the church (and why no clock) would be of interest.

Beyond Warden, heading north the old and new routes diverge at Walwick Grange where the new way turns west to Park Shield and then north toward the Wall. (If there is a desire to visit Chesters fort then the Wainwright route can be followed but this will then entail some main road walking). Details about Chesters and Cilurnum would be useful.

Having reached the main road the new route then allows the road to be crossed and the wall followed directly for a short distance before the most northerly point of the walk is reached near Milecastle 24 as noted on the old map but that is shown as Milecastle 30 on modern maps - details as to why and when the re-numbering would be useful.



The Wall is then followed to close to Milecastle 27 (modern ref 33) at which point the Wainwright route, according to his narrative, followed the main road (he stated that "I kept to the hard road:even if there had been an alternative, I should still have kept to the road, ..."). It seems odd that he stayed off the Wall but it may be that there was no access to the wall and certainly there was much archaeological exploration that followed his trek in 1938.


Details of 20th century archaeological surveys would be interesting as would any information regarding the accessibility of the wall itself at that time.



The premise that much exploration has been carried out since 1938 seems to be supported by the fact that although there is reference on the old map to "Borcovicium" there is no reference on the map to "Housesteads", the name by which it is better known. There is also reference in Wainwright's commentary to paying to see the fort at Beggarbog farm - any information about the farmer-cum-caretaker in 1938 would be very useful.

Soon after Housesteads the way then coincides with the Pennine Way once again which also follows the wall as far as Greenhead before turning south where the walks will again coincide on part of day 7.

Wainwright only had a short time on the wall and he left it again to arrive back on the road at Twice Brewed Inn. He was losing light and again took to the road for the rest of the day to Haltwhistle.



The new route stays with the wall for as long as it can, passing Sycamore Gap which was made more famous because it was where some of the filming was done for the Robin Hood film.

What is the reference to "Mare and Fox" on the old map (now shown as "Mare and Foal") - any details would be very good.

Finally, Haltwhistle is reached via a fairly quiet road.



At the end of day 6, 20 miles will have been covered visiting few places of any modern habitation but seeing many where there was once a great throng of life. Details about the Roman wall, the Vallum, the forts etc would obviously be great for the walk on day 6 is not a walk through geographical features so much as it is a walk through history.

Day 5 - Blanchland - Hexham

This is the shortest day of Wainwright's original walk at only 10 miles. He wished to position himslef to arrive at the Wall in a morning rather than late in a day so he chose to pause at Hexham ready for the Wall on the 6th day. It is also an easier day that helps overcome the tiredness of the previous day's labours.

Setting our from Blanchland the old and new routes travel the same way, starting out north west heading to Pennypie House where it turns north and follows a good path over Blanchland Moor. He could see the giant furnaces away to the east at Consett - he wouldn't see them now for as with so much of the industry he encountered they have now gone.

The path continues northward until it becomes enclosed with the plantation to which Wainwright referred. The forest is now much more extensive than it was in 1938 and the route is more difficult to follow without recourse to distant landmarks. Following the forest road though leads to a crossroads where Wainwright headed straight on with the prospect of macadam walking for the rest of the route to Hexham. These roads are sufficiently narrow and sufficiently busy to render them unpleasant so the new route winds its way through the undulating countryside via quiet tracks and paths.

Local detail of the forestry would be useful for Wainwright referredto it being newly planted and when I passed in 1998 I did so passed large conifers, 60 years the older.

The two routes remain some distance apart and the only disadvantage of the new route is that it is some way from the house at Linnels Bridge which Wainwright had so adored and dreamed of his perfect woman keeping him company. It would be very interesting to know something of the house's history which was being renovated when I passed in 1998.

The new route passes through Smelting Syke, Diptonmill and on and up close to the racecourse. It also passes the Diptonmill Inn which might be useful for a brief civilised stop. Details about these name places would be useful.



Once beyond the racecourse the route descends steadily into Hexham via Causey Hill and comes into the west end of Hexham where turning right will join the Wainwright route again in the centre.

Wainwright stayed at the Abbey Tearooms in a cold second floor room. Built directly next to the Abbey details about the tea room would be interesting.

Day 5 is a short day, basically positioning the walk for a good full day's walk along the Wall on day 6. As ever, details of and infomation about the people and places circa 1938 would be of interest.

Day 4 - Romaldkirk to Blanchland

This is the longest day of all 11 with a length of 23 miles, some of which is hard work. It may be that you wish to break this day at Rookhope which will reduce the day to 18 miles, adding the five miles to the next day's walk to Hexham (at only 10 miles this is very possible but does mean that there will have been a deviation from Wainwright's original).

Day 4 starts by finding the old railway line at the nicely converted station buildings at Romaldkirk station and heading up the valley towards Mickleham. Wainwight again followed the road (not having the chance to walk along the railway which was still in operation pre-Beecham). Details of the railway would be interesting.

The route continues on the track bed to what was the end of the line at the station near Middleton, although in 1938 there was the mining line running further up the valley that Wainwright so disliked in his continuing diatribe about how Teesdale had been spoiled by human activity. Middleton had grown up on the back of the lead mining and the area is scarred with evidence of the industry. Information about the mining would be very useful such as when the last activity ceased.

The new route doesn't venture into Middleton but joins, again, the Pennine Way route proceeding up the valley on the south side of the Tees.

Following to the south of the river the new route crosses the Tees and leaves the Pennine Way as it proceeds along Teesdale towards High Force. At a footbridge the route turns northwards heading for the hills at Swinhope Head and joins a minor road at Broadley's Gate. Local detail of the Tees valley would be useful here.

Although it may be possible to cross Newbiggin Common via paths the route joins with Wainwright's simply because today is a long walk and the quiet road allows for steady progress on this very long day. As the road is joined the site of Flushimere House can be seen on the right which in 1998 was derelict. I wondered then as to the history of the property and assumed that its presence was associated with the lead mining. Information about the house would be interesting for there are not many other notable points on this leg of the trek.

The only other house that Wainwright had noted was the one that he encountered as he descended from Swinhope Head where washing hung on the line in the foul weather. It would be intriguing to know who had left the washing out at Swinhopehead House back in 1938.

Wainwright's view of Teesdale had been less than kind and he was even more critical of Weardale which is reached having descended from Swinhope at the village of Westgate. Walking under yet another disused railway I would like to find something positive to redress the balance (although I have to say that I recall an unattractive village with little to commend it).

Wainwright's sad mood would have been added to be the damage done through mining to the north of Westgate but the new route is more fortunate in that it follows a part of the Weardale Way as it heads north up a delightful tributary and again leaves Wainwright's route to follow the road.

The path leaves the stream and rejoins the original route as it passes over Lintzgarth Common and here again there is much evidence of human endeavours to destroy what might otherwise have been beautiful. Littered with derelict workings and old shafts there is a fascinating history hereabouts but it has left its mark for evermore.

The mining is no longer here and the railway closed in 1941 just after Wainwright might have seen it carrying the mined ore (and passengers). The routes diverge again to avoid following the road and the village or Rookhope is reached (it is here that overnight accommodation can be found at the Rookhope Inn which is on the route of the coast to coast cycle path).

If it is decided to continue then the next part of the new route proceeds north over desolate moor that is again littered with old mine workings and chimneys of mines that are long-gone. Turning off the track the path passes Bolt's Law and finally begins to head downhill for the last time with Blanchland the next goal.

Passing through the general detritus of old workings it is hard to imagine that Blanchland had been the location of the London Lead company until they moved their northern base to Middleton. Blanchland itself is an unreal place that is as delightful as it is unusual. Accommodation in the village is hard to come by with the Lord Crewe Arms being the only hostelry and, I suspect, likely to be beyond most walkers' budget for overnight accommodation but a fascinating place to eat and drink.

Wainwright had managed to stay in the village at the Elliot's house and,as ever, it seems as though he would knock on doors until he found someone willing to take him in. I am sure that Blanchland is littered with history and I am sure that there are some interesting facts from circa 1938.

Day 4 then is over (or day 5 has begun if you have decided to break the day at Rookhope) and for the whole day the walker is surrounded by evidence of man's past-misdemeanours and his wholesale vandalism of his environment in the search for profit.

Details of that industry and, as usual, information about Wainwright's hosts would be very useful.

Day 3 - Muker to Romaldkirk

Each day gets slightly longer and day 3 extends to approximately 21 miles visiting 3 valleys and crossing areas of barren country including following the Pennine Way for some of the route. It starts from Muker heading north before swinging around toward Keld. There is an inn marked on the old map at Keld and any details would be useful about the inn, the landlord etc. Also of interest would be any information about Crackpot Hall and defunct lead mining in the area.


At Kisdon Force our route again meets up with the Pennine Way and proceeds north toward Stonesdale Moor and the remnants of the Tanhill Colliery. Details of the coal mining history would be interesting and whether or not there was still any activity in 1938 (I have records that seem to show abandonment in 1940 and would like confirmation).

The route also visits the highest inn in England - the Tan Hill Inn is a splendid place and when I visited in 1998 had several framed prints of Pennine way/Wainwright memorabilia. Wainwright relates the family gathering when he visited - does anyone recall the "grizzled companiable old fellow" innkeeper in 1938.

Beyond Tan Hill the route diverges from Wainwright's again as he followed the road easterly before turning north east on what he described as a pony track. The new route leaves Tan Hill and maintains its course along the Pennine Way until meeting again with the original route on the pony track near Sleightholme.

Once the old and new routes join they follow the track past Sleightholme north east with Bowes in the distance with its grand castle.

Following the track it develops into more of a road and remains frustrating as Wainwright had noted in that it bends away from Bowes before turning north at Gilmanby and arriving in the town. Bowes is noted as being the village visited by Dickens during research for Nicholas Nickleby. If I recall rightly the Unicorn Inn figures in the Dickens accounts. I remember Bowes for its main street which is now bypassed and the site of the old petrol station that seemed to have just been left by its owner once the bypass had removed the passing trade.

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North of Bowes the routes again separate as Wainwright seems to have set off on the road as directly as possible to the next village, Cotherstone.

Wainwright looked at Cotherstone with envious eyes and concluded that it was a village of net-curtain twitchers who kept themselves to themselves. As he approached Teesdale he did not generally like what he found and the dale folk do not hold Wainwright kindly in their thoughts. Any comments from locals would be very useful in this respect as I had one or two less than kind thoughts about him so the scars seem to run deep.

Leaving Cotherstone the old and new routes soon go their separate routes for Wainwright had again followed the road the 2 miles to Romaldkirk. The new route follows the bank of the Tees and passes Woden Croft Farm which had been a school in Dickens' time -any detail would be interesting, especially the history of when it stopped being a harse school.

Romaldkirk is a delightful place which seems little changed since Wainwright visited, with the exception that the Kirk Inn is now more popular than in 1938. Any details of the widowed landlady would be very interesting.

Day 3 has seen Tan Hill, evidence of mining both for lead and coal, associations with Dickens and arrived at a dale that received Wainwright's disdain. Comments about these would be useful and as usual anything that is contemporary with Wainwright passing thru.

Under construction

Day 2 - Buckden to Muker

Day 2 starts at Buckden and travels northerly along the bridleway from the car park at the north end of Buckden. Wainwright started the day by walking back to Hubberholme but I have no desire to cover the same ground again. The path proceeds high on the south side of the valley opposite Cray to meet with the road to Bishopdale where the route then follows a green lane over Kidstones Fell. Wainwright thought little of Cray - any details of Cray to balance this lowly view would be useful.

Walking on this delightful path is joy unbounded as noted by Wainwright as the route follows the green lane and arrives at Stalling Busk along this Roman road (also as noted by Wainwright). On the way to Stalling Busk the track skirts the hill named on the map as Fairy How - where that name comes from would be interesting.

Following the valley past Semer Water the way turns to follow the quiet river Bain, England's shortest river, to Bainbridge. The Rose and Crown is worth a visit to see the Bainbridge horn which in years gone by was sounded each evening to bring the foresters home when Wensleydale was largely forested. What is the P A Institution noted on the map?

Leaving Bainbridge a short walk arrives at the village of Askrigg that was once the capital of the dale. Askrigg has been made famous in more recent times through the filming of the Herriott vet stories. The railway that operated as Wainwight passed was closed in 1964 and when I passed in 1998 plans were then afoot to re-open the line.

After Askrigg there follows a 5 mile walk over to Muker with little civilisation between. The route follows Wainwright's for the main part as the road is very quiet.




The route runs over Oxnop Pasture and Swaledale opens up in front and turning west Muker is the next village and the end of day 2. Wainwright stayed with the Harkers who I believe now can be found in the graveyard. Any details of them would be very interesting.

Day 2 has passed mainly through open country except for the 2 brushes with civilisation at Bainbridge and Askrigg. Any details of that country life would be useful as would any memories of the villages en route and especially the visitors' book referred to be Wainwright at the Harkers' house in Muker - might someone have kept that book after all the intervening years?

Day 1 - Settle to Buckden

The start of our 11 days is Settle and very quickly we depart from Wainwright's route simply because the road to Horton via Langcliffe and Stainforth is best avoided by walkers. The new route follows the west side of the river Ribble and of interest is the history of Langliffe Place cotton mill (as named on the old map) and any facts would be useful.

Wainwright passed through Stainforth and would have stopped at a cafe had it not been for hundreds of parked bicycles - the cafe is now long gone presumably, any details would be good.

After Stainforth the route procceds to Helwith Bridge and follows the west side of the Ribble to the crossing point at the north end of Horton. Wainwright referred to there being 3 inns in Horton but he could only find 2 - was there a third?

Wainwright made no reference to the now famous Pen-y-Ghent cafe in Horton - was there a cafe there when he passed and was the vicarage still occupied by the minister (in 1998 it was a hostel for women and still called "The Old Vicarage").

At Horton the new and old routes meet again and the way then coincides with the Pennine Way via a green lane toward Hull Pot and over the boggy moorland of Foxup Moor. Any facts about Hull Pot would be useful as it forms a pleasant place to stop awhile after the climb from Horton.

The way becomes awkard over the moor but becomes less boggy as progress is made down to Foxup and on to Halton Gill and then there is the steep climb up to Horsehead Pass. Wainwright suggested that the hill gets its name from the curate that used to serve both Halton Gill and Hubberholme and would pass over the moor between the parishes - any detail would be interesting.

The top of Horsehead allows time for a rest before the downhill stretch to meet the Dalesway long distance path and follow its route to Buckden. Wainwright describes arriving at Ramsgill but the map shows the name to be Raisgill - why the difference in name I wondered when I did the walk.

When Wainwright arrived at the road he turned right and followed the road (again!). The new path turns left to pick up the Dalesway on the north side of the young river Wharfe through Langstrothdale and follows it to Buckden.

I believe that descendants of Wainwright's hosts in Buckden still live locally - he stayed with the Falshaws and the concern at the time was the closure of the village school. Any details on either would be good. The other concern he gave vent to was the feverish peace negotiations that were taking place to stave of imminent war (if my maths is right the day was Sunday 25th September 1938).

So, the first day has visited Settle, Stainforth, Horton, Foxup, Hubberholme and Buckden - any details on these places and the local people from circa 1938 would be useful as part of the social history of the journey.

Any evidence of J B Priestley's love of the area would be interesting.